The spider webs covered the bushes like nets along the road
but we could see no spiders, the first of the hills loomed, we are now off the
main road and onto the back road. A good day for the farmers to collect he hay
as there is still a lot lying cut in rows in the fields, plenty of still
windfarms as we reach the crest of the first hill. The temperature is rising
and not a breath of air. We will have to pace ourselves as we have 21.3klms to
complete today. We are now walking the Sli Gaeltracht Mhuscrai. The roadside is
covered with purple Heather and Alpine flowers, white peat flowers that is
similar to white cotton and a little green plant which eats the flies, similar
to the Venus Fly Trap, the sheep are dotted up the sides of the hills. Our
first stop and out comes the hats and sun screen lotion, our walking has slowed
as the temperature rises, not a good day for walking but we must keep going as
we reach the halfway mark and start to see some bike riders from the Barra. The
countryside is starting to change as we climb another hill, rocky outcrops and
rock fences dividing the fields of sheep and ferns. Our main stop of the day is
beside the road near the remains of the Euachros Church which has connections
to O'Sullivan Beare and his followers.
Another steep hill, they are all around us. Suddenly the lake appears in front
of us and I know we are close to a cold drink of water, what I would give to
dip the toes. Next appears St Finbarr’s church on the side of the lake,
standing there like something from a fairy tale. Our stay tonight is at the
Gourgane Barra Hotel, home of the Cronin/Lucy family. A famous member of the
Cronin clan, Father Donough O’Cronin, taught O’Sullivan Beare. The temperature
today has reached 26 degrees and the air so still. It has been one of the
hardest days we have walked.
The room is fresh and looking out onto the still lake so
after having settled and in shorts for the first time since coming across to
Ireland we head across to the Religious site of the monastic cells of St
Finbarr of the 6th century. The church is young, probably around 150-year-old,
small inside but very popular for weddings. Out the back of the church are the
remains of a set of six 6th century stone monastic cells, so well
preserved for their age. Also there is a
Holy Well and a small cemetery.
Back to the lounge to rest as it is still really hot outside
but the change is coming, the wind is picking up. The hotel has a “night of
opera” beside the lake and the O’Sullivan couple whom we are staying with in
Castletownbere have a booking for a meal and the opera, a lovely and unexpected
surprise and a chance to catch up as I have not seen them for over 2 years. The
rain has arrived and the temperature drops several degrees, the hot day has
gone.
We have organised the next morning a lift to the Carriganass
O’Sullivan Castle, several kilometres away, where we are to meet Dickie O’Sullivan
for a tour of the castle and what an interesting man he is. The Carriganass
Castle was built in 1542 by Chieftain Dermot O’Sullivan Bere and is the only
surviving O’Sullivan Castle The castle was donated to the public by the O’Sullivan
Clan in 2002. We leave the castle a little later than planned and the day is
warm, not as hot as the day before and it is not too long before we cross the
first yellow stile at Poc An Tairbh and the next couple of hours becomes very
interesting. We keep our eyes open for the bulls but there are mainly black
faced sheep looking at us as if we are completely mad as we climb higher and
the ferns become thicker to our waists and the yellow signs disappear below the
greenery so we end up missing a couple of signs. Thankyou St Patrick for
chasing out the snakes so all we have to watch for are the rabbit holes and
large rocks. The day is well after lunch time as we manage to get back on track
and head down the track, this time we have bog and brambles so we are glad of
our boots and long pants. Someone needs to visit the walk with a whippersnipper
but we have been told this is not allowed. The astounding views over Bantry Bay
and surrounds make up for the ferns and brambles. Over the fences and onto the
wooded section and down the road to the main road, traffic and rain. Onto the
crossroads and Glengarriff for the night. Today we have walked about 21.5klms.
Keep watching for the final instalment as we make our way to Castletownbere …………………………
Gougane Barra
Cobwebs in the early morning
Carriganass Castle
The height of the ferns
Excellently written Jennifer. Looking forward to the book.
ReplyDeleteWhat a gift - to find this posted this morning. We walk with you!
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