Well, I have sort of decided what and when the next walk will be.
I have looked at the Spain Caminos, I have looked at the Italy Caminos and they are all linked in some way. I am leaning towards a pilgrimage but which one??
After much reading and contacting people I think I will start at the beginning and not at the end and start in England, at least I can understand their signs and language as I will be walking on my own. This will give me confidence to start on my own.
I will start at the Salisbury Cathedral, to Winchester Cathedral to Canterbury Cathedral and finish in Dover at the coast of England. This walk should be about 350klms and should take me about 3 - 4 weeks to complete. I hope to finish the 1900klms pilgrimage over the next 4 - 5 years finishing at St Peters (the Vatican) in Rome.
Next was to sort the time of the year to walk. June/July was not an option, too hot and too expensive so looks like late September 2017 to start the walk. Back to training.
I have started to walk again but just 2 or 3 times a week but plan to walk a 6 day walk n June 2017 along the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail in preparation, carrying for 6 days as I plan to carry for the pilgrimage. This should be interesting times.
The Cancer site will be closed down on 12th September and the final amount donated will be announced after the Mercy Mass in St Marys Church in Ipswich. I would like to thank everyone for all their help and support over the last 15 months. It started as a dream and became reality when we descended the mountains outside Castletownbere, Cork.
The next change will be the name of this blog - watch this space......
Walking Australia to Ireland
The Story of our Walk: Walking Ireland for the Craic
Saturday, 3 September 2016
Friday, 12 August 2016
What do I do now?
I am home, I have completed what I set out to do some 18 months ago, I have raised my fitness level so what is next?
Does this blog need a name change? Yes, I am already thinking about what the next long walk will be and those shorter ones in between. These ideas change daily but guess I will settle on somewhere in the next 12 months.
I still have one big day to get over and this will be a hurdle as I am not a public speaker so this day will be harder than walking the 547 klms that I have just walked. This is the day that Sue and I close down the Cancer Donation site but still have about $400 to raise to reach the new promised amount of $11,000. I am still hoping that I can reach this amount and if I can I will be very happy, our original promised amount was only $5000 and I thought that was a mountain to climb.
I have started back walking but only a few days a week but have a full day in late September when I will walk one of the tracks out on the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail. I need to make a start again or I will get lazy and keep putting it off. I am happy when I am walking.
Any suggestions on another long distance walk, perhaps a walk that you have already completed and enjoyed. I would like one that has signposts this time. Has anyone walked the Camino Way in Spain as this one keeps popping up. It is definitely LONG.
Until the next entry I will keep searching for the next long walk and keep walking....
Does this blog need a name change? Yes, I am already thinking about what the next long walk will be and those shorter ones in between. These ideas change daily but guess I will settle on somewhere in the next 12 months.
I still have one big day to get over and this will be a hurdle as I am not a public speaker so this day will be harder than walking the 547 klms that I have just walked. This is the day that Sue and I close down the Cancer Donation site but still have about $400 to raise to reach the new promised amount of $11,000. I am still hoping that I can reach this amount and if I can I will be very happy, our original promised amount was only $5000 and I thought that was a mountain to climb.
I have started back walking but only a few days a week but have a full day in late September when I will walk one of the tracks out on the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail. I need to make a start again or I will get lazy and keep putting it off. I am happy when I am walking.
Any suggestions on another long distance walk, perhaps a walk that you have already completed and enjoyed. I would like one that has signposts this time. Has anyone walked the Camino Way in Spain as this one keeps popping up. It is definitely LONG.
Until the next entry I will keep searching for the next long walk and keep walking....
Tuesday, 26 July 2016
Final Leg – Fair Play to You
The final stretch and looking forward to putting the feet up
but still some distance to go. We have now walked 520.4klms since we left
Leitrim several weeks ago.
We leave the
colourful crossroad village of Glengarriff with a low, heavy mist hanging over
the mountains so decide for our safety we will not walk the mountain path but
instead we decide to walk the main road for some klms and pick up the bike path
to Adrigole. We do not wish to become a statistic at this stage of the walk.
Not sure if it was such a wise decision as the traffic is a little hairy at
times with some serious bends and curves in the road and little room at the
sides to move off, this just makes us walk a little faster. We turn off the coast
road at Lackavane and head up the path, we are now facing some very rocky
mountains and hope we do not have to climb them - I am not a mountain goat.
We have a break at Leitrim Beg and the standing stone which
is situated in a farmer’s field, I find I am a little bull shy so keep an eye
on the cows as we trudge across the boggy fields. The views across the Beara
Peninsula was worth the walk. This part of West Cork is so beautiful and wild
with the green hills covered in large boulders and dotted with sheep. We watch
the wet mist coming down the hills and we know we are going to get very wet
very soon so decide it is time to change into the wet gear, hopefully for the
last time. Several wedge graves off the road but the rain is starting to get
heavy and we still have a few kilometres until we reach our bed for the night.
When we reach our B & B we must look a sight – dripping wet
and a little earlier than expected. All
I want is to stand in front of the roaring fire and dry off. We have walked
16.8klms today in the rain.
The final morning looms, bright and sunny. We are to meet
Jean and Paddy O’Sullivan and Fachtna O’Donovan outside Adrigole and they will
walk us over Hungry Hill and several more very rocky hills and into
Castletownbere – 26.7klms. The walk or should I say hill climb is steep, rocky
and very demanding, not sure if I am just exhausted or the boys are testing
these Australian women to see what we are made of. Sue and I have decided that
we have O’Sullivan ancestry but definitely not mountain goat in our bloodline.
Upwards we continue and JUST one more hill when we start the downward run. This
has proven to be one of the hardest walking days but we have done it. We have a
welcome party at the bottom of the mountain and photographer and we walk into
the village and Twomeys Bar where we have more people and the Clan Chieftain
waiting for us.
It is hard to believe we have completed the walk that we
have been organising, training and dreaming about for over the past 15 months.
The hospitality through Ireland has been fantastic, the villages have taken us
into their community, their homes and hearts and for this we will be forever
grateful. The day and celebrations finish at night with several presentations from
the Beara people and a night of Irish music, a very late night or early morning
but one we will always remember. Yesterday we completed the March with a phone
interview for a West Cork Newspaper – we are internationally famous.
Sue and I have walked 547 klms, walked 25th June –
22nd July, we have had 5 rest days, we have raised $10,326
for Cancer Queensland. We have had 1 blister on the first day and no serious
injuries, walked 16 – 38 klms each day and had a mixture of weather. We had
walkers along the way and made some lifelong friends. We have had a mixture of
hotels, B & Bs, hotels and private accommodation and everyone has gone out
of their way to welcome us and show us the sights and history of the area. We
will never be able to thank the Irish people for their friendship and
hospitality.
We have walked
Ireland for the craic
Monday, 25 July 2016
Thankyou St Patrick for walking Ireland before me………
Our final rest day at Ballyvourney is over and after the night watchman
organises some breakfast for us we start out to cross the Ballyvourney
Mountains to Gougane Barra, it is cool but the warnings for a very hot day have
been posted. We are Australians we can handle a hot day but nothing prepared us
for what lay ahead. We have 21.6klms to walk.
The spider webs covered the bushes like nets along the road
but we could see no spiders, the first of the hills loomed, we are now off the
main road and onto the back road. A good day for the farmers to collect he hay
as there is still a lot lying cut in rows in the fields, plenty of still
windfarms as we reach the crest of the first hill. The temperature is rising
and not a breath of air. We will have to pace ourselves as we have 21.3klms to
complete today. We are now walking the Sli Gaeltracht Mhuscrai. The roadside is
covered with purple Heather and Alpine flowers, white peat flowers that is
similar to white cotton and a little green plant which eats the flies, similar
to the Venus Fly Trap, the sheep are dotted up the sides of the hills. Our
first stop and out comes the hats and sun screen lotion, our walking has slowed
as the temperature rises, not a good day for walking but we must keep going as
we reach the halfway mark and start to see some bike riders from the Barra. The
countryside is starting to change as we climb another hill, rocky outcrops and
rock fences dividing the fields of sheep and ferns. Our main stop of the day is
beside the road near the remains of the Euachros Church which has connections
to O'Sullivan Beare and his followers.
Another steep hill, they are all around us. Suddenly the lake appears in front
of us and I know we are close to a cold drink of water, what I would give to
dip the toes. Next appears St Finbarr’s church on the side of the lake,
standing there like something from a fairy tale. Our stay tonight is at the
Gourgane Barra Hotel, home of the Cronin/Lucy family. A famous member of the
Cronin clan, Father Donough O’Cronin, taught O’Sullivan Beare. The temperature
today has reached 26 degrees and the air so still. It has been one of the
hardest days we have walked.
The room is fresh and looking out onto the still lake so
after having settled and in shorts for the first time since coming across to
Ireland we head across to the Religious site of the monastic cells of St
Finbarr of the 6th century. The church is young, probably around 150-year-old,
small inside but very popular for weddings. Out the back of the church are the
remains of a set of six 6th century stone monastic cells, so well
preserved for their age. Also there is a
Holy Well and a small cemetery.
Back to the lounge to rest as it is still really hot outside
but the change is coming, the wind is picking up. The hotel has a “night of
opera” beside the lake and the O’Sullivan couple whom we are staying with in
Castletownbere have a booking for a meal and the opera, a lovely and unexpected
surprise and a chance to catch up as I have not seen them for over 2 years. The
rain has arrived and the temperature drops several degrees, the hot day has
gone.
We have organised the next morning a lift to the Carriganass
O’Sullivan Castle, several kilometres away, where we are to meet Dickie O’Sullivan
for a tour of the castle and what an interesting man he is. The Carriganass
Castle was built in 1542 by Chieftain Dermot O’Sullivan Bere and is the only
surviving O’Sullivan Castle The castle was donated to the public by the O’Sullivan
Clan in 2002. We leave the castle a little later than planned and the day is
warm, not as hot as the day before and it is not too long before we cross the
first yellow stile at Poc An Tairbh and the next couple of hours becomes very
interesting. We keep our eyes open for the bulls but there are mainly black
faced sheep looking at us as if we are completely mad as we climb higher and
the ferns become thicker to our waists and the yellow signs disappear below the
greenery so we end up missing a couple of signs. Thankyou St Patrick for
chasing out the snakes so all we have to watch for are the rabbit holes and
large rocks. The day is well after lunch time as we manage to get back on track
and head down the track, this time we have bog and brambles so we are glad of
our boots and long pants. Someone needs to visit the walk with a whippersnipper
but we have been told this is not allowed. The astounding views over Bantry Bay
and surrounds make up for the ferns and brambles. Over the fences and onto the
wooded section and down the road to the main road, traffic and rain. Onto the
crossroads and Glengarriff for the night. Today we have walked about 21.5klms.
Keep watching for the final instalment as we make our way to Castletownbere …………………………
Gougane Barra
Cobwebs in the early morning
Carriganass Castle
The height of the ferns
Monday, 18 July 2016
On the road again…….. and more hills
We left Tipperary under a cloud of heavy mist or perhaps
light rain, we have had 2 days rest, 5 days without a backpack on our backs, 2
days with no boots, 3 late nights, 31.2klms to walk and our legs are
protesting. Today is not going to be a good day. Back through town past the
small coloured houses perched on the edge of the footpaths, the Cathedral bells
calling the faithful and we connect up to the Ballyhoura Way and the photos of
O’Sullivan Beare start to appear again. About 2 hours into the day our first
stop is the ruins of Moor Abby a Franciscan Priory established in the 13th
Century on the banks of the Aherlow River. This is the area where the
descendants of Brian Boru or the O’Brien Clan now live, the mother of Donal O’Sullivan
was Margaret O’Brien’s so the O’Sullivans had a connection to the Abby. Inside
the Abbey is the remains of a tomb thought to be that of the owner, Donarch
Ua’Brian.
Churchtown looms and the rain has started and we are now in Cork. It is a small village but nothing, no shops are open mostly with Closed Signs displayed, no children playing in the yards and no teenagers hanging around the streets. In the village there is a large housing estate of well of 90 units but nearly all empty. They were built during the boom years and then handed back to the banks whom are now waiting for the market prices to rise. The same situation in so many villages. Even the pubs do not open until late in the day and that is a sad sign. A meal at Fishers Traditional Chipper which also opens late in the day, fish and chips out of paper is always enjoyable when it is cold. Rained all night so not looking forward to walking tomorrow. We walked 24.1 klms today.
The little things in life that have suddenly become so important to us – a bed each day, a shower that works and you do not need a degree to operate, a toilet that flushes properly on the first time, dry boots each day and your main bag in your room when you arrive for the rest day. This means clean clothes. A big thankyou to the Pathway Porter for moving our luggage along.
So far we have walked 450.91 klms, had 4 rest days and the Cancer Donation site is over $10,000.
Onto Galbally and the
first coffee stop for the day and what a surprise as we find coffee shops are
few and far between. Lovely to get the boots off for a short time. On we trudge
past several tomb signs but too far to walk there and back but guess we will
see closer ones as we move along, the walking is slow as we also have to tackle
some rather steep hills covered in very low cloud. Not a good sign. Past a
couple of large Wind Farms and paddocks full of pink hay bales – pink for
Breast Cancer Ireland, the crossroads loom and the village of Ballylanders a
little larger than expected. Starting to rain, a valley to manoeuvre so this
also means a hill to climb and we are in Kilfannane and to the Ballyhoura
Luxury Hostel, our bed for the night. Our room is quite large and we do not
have to share with anyone, a large log fire burning in the lounge area, not
sure if this for our benefit but lovely as we are frozen to the bone. Not much
life in the town as is the par for most of the smaller villages we have been
through, mainly the result of the Celtic Tiger boom. We check out the Famine Cemetery
and the first sighting of an O’Sullivan grave so close to Cork.
The next day is a very early, cool start and after a good
night sleep we are feeling a little more human. Onto Ballymoe for the first
stop and it is at a petrol station, we are finding them good places to stop as
they have everything we need – shelter, coffee, cake, toilets and somewhere to
sit down for a while. A bit like a McDonalds. Through Ardpatrick and around
Effin and the day is starting to warm up, we are in Ballyhoura Country. The
countryside has changed from sheep to cattle and wheat, the colours of the
flowers still amaze us and some thatched roofed houses. We have remained on the
little lanes with the high hedges on each side making cars trying to pass us
and not run over the toes rather interesting at times. We have to cross a
rather large and busy highway so we can pick up the Way on the other side so we
walk for a short time on a grassy walk between a main road and the main Dublin
railway. Makes us walk faster and concentrate, we are still following the
little yellow man but he is appearing more regularly on the signposts, you must
keep your eyes peeled for him as he is easy to miss if buried in among the tall
grass on the sides of the road. There are more paddocks of golden wheat so
close to cutting, farmers are relying on the fine days.Churchtown looms and the rain has started and we are now in Cork. It is a small village but nothing, no shops are open mostly with Closed Signs displayed, no children playing in the yards and no teenagers hanging around the streets. In the village there is a large housing estate of well of 90 units but nearly all empty. They were built during the boom years and then handed back to the banks whom are now waiting for the market prices to rise. The same situation in so many villages. Even the pubs do not open until late in the day and that is a sad sign. A meal at Fishers Traditional Chipper which also opens late in the day, fish and chips out of paper is always enjoyable when it is cold. Rained all night so not looking forward to walking tomorrow. We walked 24.1 klms today.
We are surprised, no rain and the sun is trying to break
through but not for long. We head towards Liscarroll and our first stop is the
Donkey Sanctuary which has been caring for the donkeys from all over Ireland
since 1926 - the sick, abandoned, mistreated and those with special needs.
About 1400 in total, all have their own names and a collar around their necks,
lots of little guys and all want a pat, can’t deny them that pleasure. The
Sanctuary relies on donations. Onto the 13th century Liscarroll Castle
remains which is not open to the public as it is situated on private land the
only inhabitants were a handful of dairy cattle. Not a big village and again
nothing is open, several very old deserted homes situated along the footpaths
through town. We are noticing new monuments for the 1916 Rebellion starting to
appear in the villages, big celebrations later this month. A few kilometres
outside Liscarroll we are approached by a young man, Mick Mortell, who is to
walk with us over a rather steep hill. The company was great as it takes our
minds off our feet and the height of the hill and he tells us a little of the
area. Onto the Ford of Bellaghan and John’s Bridge. In 1603 when O’Sullivan
reached this Ford he was approached by Captain Cuffe of Liscarroll and a small
battle took place with the loss and injury of a few of his men. To this day
this ford crossing is known as O’Sullivan’s Ford. They buried their dead in
Cillun Una, a sacred place on the ridge overlooking the river. Some of the
wounded were nursed by locals and their descendants remain in the area today. A
boot and coffee break at the crossroads sitting in the light rain overlooking
the dairy cow paddocks. Not the nicest of smells.
The start of the Duhallow Way and the interesting, small and
very old Kilmacow Cemetery, consisting of interesting earthworks, ruins of a
church/chapel holy well and graveyard. What was really of interest on the sign
was the following:
The Kilmacow Drum is heard when someone in the locality is dying. It is
a ghostly phenomenon and only some can hear the sound. The sound resembles a
barrel rolling downhill and it begins its perambulation at Sankeys Grave.
I have decided to put this belief in the Fairy Tree Basket –
I feel I must not be as Irish as I had hoped.
Onto Lismire along the backroads and the feet are really
crying out for the next bed. In Newmarket where we will be staying for 2 nights
– accommodation was hard to locate in this area due to an International Horse
Show at the same time. A few more hills a valley or two and a little bit of
rain and we are where we want to be - no boots and flat out on the bed.
Not the best night as there was a 70/30 birthday party in
the pub and the 30 side of the crowd decided to stay until well after 3am so
today will be hard to walk even if we have no backpacks. The owner’s son drops
us to Millstreet and we walk the 21.5klms back. Rained the complete walk, no
scenery to talk about, no villages, some serious hills and traffic and we were sleep
deprived. We were so happy to see the church spire in Newmarket. Probably the worst
day of walking. Spent the remainder of
the afternoon getting ourselves ready for one more day of walking before a rest
day. We have now walked over 427klms. In 1602/1603 O’Sullivan marched through
Duhallow and received hospitality from the O’Keefe Clan in Millstreet.
The next morning is an early start, a local taxi drives us
to Mill Street to pick up the walk and we have not anticipated the hills and I
mean HILLS. Not just one hill but several but the scenery is much better on the
eye. We are now back in sheep country again and hay cutting is in full swing. Wind
Farms, roadside shrines, stone circles, row circles and some wedge tombs but no
villages so no coffee stops. We are still on the Duhallow Way which is part of
the Beara Breifne Way and the mist is very low over the mountains or we may be
up in the clouds. We have started to see the purple Heather in flower among the
rocky outcrops where the sheep appear to hide. The first part of the village of
Ballyvourney and we know we have to rest the feet and get the boots off, the
first Guinness for the day is on the house as we are walking for Cancer. This I
can handle. We still have another 2 klms to walk to our accommodation, Mills
Inn, no boots or backpacks for 48 hours. Today we walked 23.5 klms.The little things in life that have suddenly become so important to us – a bed each day, a shower that works and you do not need a degree to operate, a toilet that flushes properly on the first time, dry boots each day and your main bag in your room when you arrive for the rest day. This means clean clothes. A big thankyou to the Pathway Porter for moving our luggage along.
So far we have walked 450.91 klms, had 4 rest days and the Cancer Donation site is over $10,000.
See you all in Castletownbeare in 4 days and the finish of
the O’Sullivan March. We will have walked it for Cancer Queensland with the boys always
in our minds.
Monday, 11 July 2016
Rest Day in Tipperary Town - off with the boots
Our rest day half way along the walk and what do we do but walk
- this time without our boots and we take time out to act like a tourist.
A slow leisurely breakfast before we head to the Catholic Church to have a look, it is 10am and Mass is about to start and the church is nearly FULL, people and cars everywhere so give it a miss and head back to the main area to meet up with the Link bus which will take us to Cashel and the famous St Patrick’s Rock. While waiting it happens again and an Irish gentleman stops and starts to talk to us as if we are old friends, some people would call it flirting and it has happened several times. I didn’t realise Australians appeared so friendly – puts us into fits of laughter.
Inside the buildings is a series of small museums and one houses a sand stone 12th century St Patrick’s Cross.
Contact will not be there in a lot of the smaller villages so I will sign off for the next week. See you in O’Sullivan land, our countryside.
A slow leisurely breakfast before we head to the Catholic Church to have a look, it is 10am and Mass is about to start and the church is nearly FULL, people and cars everywhere so give it a miss and head back to the main area to meet up with the Link bus which will take us to Cashel and the famous St Patrick’s Rock. While waiting it happens again and an Irish gentleman stops and starts to talk to us as if we are old friends, some people would call it flirting and it has happened several times. I didn’t realise Australians appeared so friendly – puts us into fits of laughter.
Cashel is about a 30-minute drive and the driver drops us –
the only passengers – at the front door or in this case the front gate so we
don’t have to walk up the smallish hill. The Rock of Cashel is one of Ireland’s historic
sites and was the seat of Kings of Munster from 4 -11th Centuries. There
is still work being done on the castle, I believe it has been going on since
1980 so guess we will have to do some photo-shopping with our photos. It is
bitterly cold and blowing a gale but still there are people there in short
shorts and tee shirts. This cannot be Summer!! The Cathedral replaces an earlier structure
and the current building started in 1235, the Central Tower was added in the 14th
century and a strong Castle was built in the 15th Century. There are several 16th century carved
tombs in the Cathedral and without a roof most of it is open to the elements. We
head to Cormac’s Chapel where the restoration work is being done, I am amazed
that the public are allowed to touch the walls as it is so old and fragile.
Outside the views across the fields of different shades of
green are magnificent and so clear – no fog or showers of rains but this could
change very quickly. The large Celtic crosses dominate the graveyard with the
pigeons and jackdaws claiming the high towers as their own. Beyond the stone
walls of the Cathedral is the remains of another church sitting in the fields
on its own.Inside the buildings is a series of small museums and one houses a sand stone 12th century St Patrick’s Cross.
We leave the Rock via the tourist shop and then wander down
the hill to the village of Cashel swarming with tourists and traffic. St Dominic’s
Friary ruins, the old Town Hall, Cashel Folk Village building with a variety of
displays, Back of the Pipe with running water, ruins of Kearney’s Castle which
is now a hotel, The Church of St Theresa with its amazing mosaics. We have a
short time to fill in while we wait for the returning bus back to Tipperary.
Tomorrow is our 2nd rest day and it will be just
that to catch up on the paperwork or in this case computer work, diaries and
washing so we have some clean clothes for the next section of the walk. This
section of 5 days will be Tipperary to Ballevourney, about 125 klms and over
some very hilly countryside and down into Cork – O’Sullivan country. For this
section we have been issued with some maps so no guessing the tracks but we
will be walking on our own and a variety of accommodation – hostels to hotels
to B & Bs to an Inn. Should be interesting.Contact will not be there in a lot of the smaller villages so I will sign off for the next week. See you in O’Sullivan land, our countryside.
St Patricks Cross
Sunday, 10 July 2016
It’s a long way to Tipperary………..
Week 3 and Day 13
Portumna to Tipperary
We left the B & B early in the morning in misty rain and
sad that we had to go as it was a lovely town and the hospitality could not be
faulted. A big thankyou to Mary, the owner of the Oaklodge B & B. Headed
back to the Shannon and crossed it into County Tipperary and onto the Ormond
way, along some back roads and a horrendous short distance of the National
road. Even though it was early there was enough traffic to make us walk faster
than we usually did. The Beara Breifne signs were starting to appear again and
also photos on the signs of Donal Cam O’Sullivan Beare – the man who back in
1602 started this mad idea to walk. There were hay making machines everywhere
really upsetting my nose but guess they have to “make hay while the sun
shines”. Laurencetown for a coffee which was a hard thing to find as the pub
was not opened but the young girl opened especially for us – just coffee.
Onwards we headed to Ballingarry and the day was getting quite warm. We had to
wait in the town for a lady to collect us and as we had a 3 hour wait and
NOTHING was open we made ourselves comfortable on the footpath outside Noonan’s
Bar on one of the beer garden chairs, read a book and watched the trucks and
traffic go by. The pub owner had been working on his roof – pub did not open
until 6pm, and he took pity on us and brought out a large glass of Cider so we
must have looked a sight to the traffic and locals. The town is nearly dead
which we have discovered in a lot of the smaller villages across Ireland, shops
closed down, houses in a terrible state of repair or just abandoned, For Sale
signs everywhere. People keep saying that their young people have gone away to
Australia and we have seen very little of the younger generation so this may be
correct to some degree. The “Sweet Home Al Obama B & B” is situated in
Moneygall, a few klms from where we were collected but we have a house to
ourselves so a chance to spread out. Patricia, the owner, has a meal cooked for
us and then takes us on a drive around the area and back lanes, showed us the
field where O’Sullivan and his clans rested as they walked through the village and
areas that we would never have seen on our feet. A big thank you for the
hospitality and friendship offered during our stay. This village is where
Barack Obama’s great grandfather, many times removed, was born and lived so we
see many American flags flying and posters of the President. He has bought some
life back into the village.
Up early next morning but the walk to Toomevara is only
8klms from where we are staying for 2 nights, we start the walk along the main
road, a quick coffee and directions at the Tipperary Inn and head to the
Catholic Church and the remains of a much older church and cemetery in the same
grounds. There are a couple of old headstones dating back to early 17th
century and still readable – before Australia was settled by Captain Cook so
hard to believe. We then head to the Protestant Church and sad to see it in
such a state of repair. As I have mentioned before the array of flowers in
bloom is astounding. Before we left the village we were lucky to meet a Michael
O’Sullivan, a descendant of the original clan that travelled through the area
in 1602. As the clans moved north, with the British Forces chasing them a large
number of the Cork clans became sick and died or just decided to remain in the
area so there are descendants of these clans who remained. Sue and I also
“sipped” our first taste of Poitin or as I know it “Moonshine” – very illegal
and very potent. Sipped is all we did as I am sure it cleared my heyfever and
sore throat instantly. As we headed back to the B & B it has started to
rain again, it has been a lovely and interesting day and now we await the
arrival of Philip and Beverley James from French Park who will be walking with
us for the next 2 days to Tipperary. Philip has the maps so a day for us to
chill out and walk, he will carry the bags in his car and drive ahead, park the
car and walk back to meet us and continue this during the day. So much easier
on the backs.
Up very early to start the walk from Toomevara to
Upperchurch, it is pouring rain and freezing but we know we have to go. I feel
I have pulled a muscle in my lower leg/foot but take some painkillers and keep
going. This section of the stretch is EXTREMELY hilly but the views are
spectacular and all on back roads as the fields are far too wet and overgrown
to walk in. The sides of the roads are covered in flowers of a variety of
colours, wild strawberries on the vines, lambs and calves everywhere as well as
many black and white collie dogs who make their presence known along the walk.
The farmers are all out in the fields and we are given a display by a farmer
how they collect the hay, how they process it into large round bales and then
wrap it in plastic. Some of the plastic used for the hay is pink for Breast
Cancer and also a mauve colour but not sure why this colour. Very interesting
to watch. We pass a very old Cemetery,
Latteragh Graveyard and the castle remains close by, Holy wells and standing
stones. Onto Templederry and again nothing open but we ask at the Post office
which is also part of the local pub and grocery store and she opens up the pub
so we can get a coffee and a stop to get the shoes off the feet. While there
Matt Ryan and his wife turn up, I have been in touch with him for several
months about the walk and he is one of main people on the committee to look
after this section of the Beara Breifne Way. I had not told him when we were
coming through the area so another of these coincidences that we have been experiencing
along the way.
As we hit the highest
section of the ranges Upperchurch looms in the distance and such a clean,
pretty little village but not a person to be seen and no shops open – it is
Saturday afternoon. We have rooms booked in the Hillview B & B but plan to
walk on a few more klms as the day is still young. 31.9klms later and we all call
it a day as the rain is coming across the mountains. Upperchurch is one of the
villages that O’Sullivan Beara and his followers passed through, they chose to
stay on the highground/mountains above the British Forces so they could keep
them in sight on the lower grounds. The next day is the final stretch into Tipperary, about 23klms and we are now on the Multeen Way as we head to Cappawhite. The weather predicts rain after lunch so if we are lucky we should stay dry for most of the way. Not a big village but people out and about, mass is in progress as we walk in so the bells are ringing, Sue and I light some candles for the 4 boys. For the next section we use the “Four Wheeled Horse” and head to Donohill and the Motte, a Norman Forte built around 1200 which O’Sullivan attacked in 1603. His people were hungry and needed food and shelter. Close by is St James Holy Well which his people used to drink from. Access to the hill and Motte is via the Beara Breifne Way path across the farmers’ fields but we are well into the fields when we spot the big black bull at the same time he spots us. A quick backwards retreat is made and another entrance is found through another field and straight up the side of the hill, a bit tricky but we manage. Across the road is a very old graveyard but still no O’Sullivan names on the headstones, some very old but mainly Ryan, O’Dwyer and O’Brien. The remainder of the way into Tipperary is on a very busy road so we are glad to reach our accommodation for the next 3 nights so I can rest my foot and leg for the next section of the walk.
We have walked over 320 klms, walked for 15 days and had 2 rest days. The Cancer Donation site has reached over $9800.
We have finally reached the half way mark so feel we are entitled to some R & R. It is all downhill from here
Portumna B & B
Frolicking in the branches of a tree
Sitting outside Noonan's Bar in Ballingarry
The fields behind us is where O'Sullivan camped
Toomevara
Meeting Michael O'Sullivan
O'Sullivan Beara Signs
Meeting Matt Ryan
Hay bales wrapped for Cancer
At the top of the Motte at Donohill
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